Pattern
34. Mittens In Tunisian Crochet 'A Scent Of Mint '
2013-08-08, by Jolanta Gustafsson
Yarn: 65 % merino wool (superwash), 10 % angora; 100 g = approx 400 m
Yarn Amount: approx 65 g
Crochet Hook: double ended 4 mm or size neede to obtain the gauge
Gauge: 26 stitches and 26 rounds in Tunisian simple stitch = 10 cm
Size: Woman's S
Measurements: 18/20 cm around above/below thumb, 25 cm long
Skill Level: Experienced
Abbreviations:
st(s), ch(s) – stitch(es), chain/chain(s)
ts – Tunisian simple stitch: insert the hook under the next vertical bar on previous round from right to left, bring the yarn over the hook att pull it through; the first round is worked on a foundation chain – insert the hook under the back (upper) loop of a chain stitch unless otherwise directed.
tdc-bp – Tunisian back post double crochet: a Tunisian crochet stitch looks like a vertical bar, a thread that forms this vertical bar emerges from the previous round, goes up, turns in towards the back side of work, and goes then on the bak side of work down to the same place from where it has emerged – this place where the down going thread meets the up going thread is called the root of the stitch, the root is thus these two threads together just above the previous round; so when you make a Tunisian back post double crochet work in the following way: bring the yarn over the hook, insert the hook from the back side around the root of next stitch from right to left, bring the yarn over the hook again and pull it through in the same way as when you work a regular back post double crochet, then bring the yarn over the hook once again and pull it through 2 loops on the hook.
inc – increase one stitch by picking up a stitch between two vertical bars: insert the hook under one horizontal thread between two vertical bars, bring the yarn over the hook and pull it through; the increase is least visible if the hook is inserted under the upper-front-and-nearest-to-the-hook thread if you are working in rounds.
2 tog – work 2 stitches together: insert the hook under the next 2 vertical bars on previous round from right to left, bring the yarn over the hook and pull it through under both bars; 3 stitches together are worked in a corresponding way.
tpuff – Tunisian puff stitch: insert the hook under the next vertical bar on previous round from right to left, bring the yarn over the hook and pull it through – you get a new loop on the hook; bring the yarn over the hook and insert the hook in the same way and under the same vertical bar again, bring the yarn over the hook and pull it through – now you have 3 new loops on the hook totally; bring the yarn over the hook and insert the hook in the same way and under the same vertical bar once again, bring the yarn over the hook and pull it through – now you have 5 new loops on the hook totally; bring the yarn over the hook and pull it through all these 5 loops, yarn over again and pull it through 1 loop.
Round 5-I, Round 5-II – the first pass on round 5, the second pass on round 5. Each round in Tunisian crochet is worked in two passes – on the first pass the stitches are picked up, and on the second pass the stitches are worked off. In contrast to regular Tunisian crochet where you are working a forward pass and a return pass, you will be working all the time forward when you are working in rounds, but you will have to turn the work around in between the passes. When you are working the first pass you will be working from right to left holding your work with the right side facing you, and when you are working the second pass you will be working from left to right holding your work with the wrong side facing you.
Round 5 – if it's not specified how to work the first or the second pass of the round, it means that working the stitches off on the second pass is always 2 loops at a time.
two 2, 4, 3 – work off in Tunisian crochet: the numbers indicate how many stitches should be worked off at a time on the second pass of the round. In this case you should work as follows: bring the yarn over the hook and pull it through 2 loops on hook, yarn over again and pull it through 4 loops on hook, and yarn over once again and pull it through 3 loops on hook.
{2}14 – the number within braces shows how many loops should be worked off at a time, the number after braces shows how many times it should be repeated
{ } – repeat instructions within braces as many times as directed
/ – the number after slash symbol shows the amount of stitches for the round
Mitten
The mitten is work in Tunisian crochet in rounds. You will be working with two strands of yarn, so you need to have two skeins.
Round 1: On this round you will have to work 72 ts.
Start by making 72 chains using one strand of yarn. Form a ring by making the first stitch – insert the hook into the first chain and pick up a stitch. This stitch is the first stitch on the round, put a marker on it so that you can always easily find the begining of the round; remember to move the marker up every time you start a new round. Continue to pick up the remaining 71 stitches. These 72 stitches that you picked up are 72 ts on the first pass.
Note that before you start picking up the stitches, there was already one loop on the hook. It's going to be always one loop more than there are stitches. It would be easy to see that if you move all the stitches that you pick up on a waste yarn. Or if you work all the stitches off, there will be one loop left on the hook.
When you are working Tunisian crochet in rounds, you have to start working the second pass before the first pass is finished. So when you have picked up approx half of the stitches you can start working the second pass. Turn the work around, take the second strand of yarn from another skein, bring the yarn over the hook and pull it through 2 loops, bring the yarn over the hook again and pull it through 2 loops again. Repeat it untill you have 3-5 loops left on the hook. Then turn the work around again, and continue to pick up stitches.
Continue to work in this way untill you have picked up all the stitches on the round, the first pass of the round is completed when you have picked up the last stitch before the marked stitch. On this point your second pass is going to be unfinished – you may have some 3-5 loops on the hook. To know how the stitches should be picked up further, you have to read the instructions for the second round. When you have worked a bit further you can finish the second pass of the first round, the second pass is completed when there is only one loop left before the marked stitch.
The bordelines between the rounds in Tunisian crochet are not easily defined, but it's important to know them in order to read the pattern correctly. So here comes a summary:
The first pass starts when you start picking up the first stitch on the round, the marked one. The first pass is completed when you have picked up the last stitch before the marked stitch. Working the stitches off on the second pass is always 2 loops at a time - even at the beginning of work, unless otherwise stated. The second pass is completed when there is only one loop left before the marked stitch. The next second pass starts when you see that when you bring the yarn and pull it through 2 loops the second loop is from the marked stitch. These guidelines concern only my patterns, the starting points in other patterns may be different.
To work Tunisian crochet in rounds is a bit like juggling, you always have to think about two rounds at the same time. The good news is that working the stitches off in this pattern is always 2 loops at a time up to the increases at the top of the mitten. So there is no need to puzzle your head over where the second passes start and where they are completed up to that place.
Finally we can start working the second round. :)
Round 2: 72 tdc-bp.
Round 3: { 1 ts, inc, 3 ts, 2 tog, 2 tog, 3 ts, inc, 1 ts } 6 times. / 72 sts
Rounds 4-7: Repeat round 3.
Round 8: { 4 ts, 2 tog, 2 tog, 4 ts } 6 times. / 60 sts
Round 9: { 3 ts, 2 tog, 2 tog, 3 ts } 6 times. / 48 sts
Round 10: 48 ts.
Round 11: 48 tdc-bp.
Rounds 12-13: Same as rounds 10-11.
Rounds 14-17: 48 ts.
Rounds 18-30 for left mitten:
Round 18: 21 ts, inc, 3 te; 2 te, { tpuff, 3 ts } 5 times, tpuff, 1 ts. / 49 sts
Round 19: 21 ts, inc, 4 te; 24 te. / 50 sts
Round 20: 21 ts, inc, 5 te; 24 te. / 51 sts
Round 21: 21 ts, inc, 6 te; 24 te. / 52 sts
Round 22: 28 ts; 24 ts. / 52 sts
Round 23: 21 ts, inc, 7 ts; 2 ts, { tpuff, 3 ts } 5 times, tpuff, 1 ts. / 53 sts
Round 24: 21 ts, inc, 8 ts; 24 ts. / 54 sts
Round 25: 30 ts; 24 ts. / 54 sts
Round 26: 21 ts, inc, 9 ts; 24 ts. / 55 sts
Round 27: 21 ts, inc, 10 ts; 24 ts. / 56 sts
Round 28: 32 ts; 2 ts, { tpuff, 3 ts } 5 times, tpuff, 1 ts. / 56 sts
Round 29: 32 ts; 24 ts. / 56 sts
Round 30: 21 ts, cast on 3 sts using backward-loop cast-on, skip 11 sts; 24 ts. / 48 sts
Rounds 18-30 for right mitten:
Round 18: 2 ts, { tpuff, 3 ts } 5 times, tpuff, 1 ts; 4 ts, inc, 20 ts. / 49 sts
Round 19: 24 ts; 5 ts, inc, 20 ts. / 50 sts
Round 20: 24 ts; 6 ts, inc, 20 ts. / 51 sts
Round 21: 24 ts; 7 ts, inc, 20 ts. / 52 sts
Round 22: 24 ts; 28 ts. / 52 sts
Round 23: 2 ts, { tpuff, 3 ts } 5 times, tpuff, 1 ts; 8 ts, inc, 20 ts. / 53 sts
Round 24: 24 ts; 9 ts, inc, 20 ts. / 54 sts
Round 25: 24 ts; 30 ts. / 54 sts
Round 26: 24 ts; 10 ts, inc, 20 ts. / 55 sts
Round 27: 24 ts; 11 ts, inc, 20 ts. / 56 sts
Round 28: 2 ts, { tpuff, 3 ts } 5 times, tpuff, 1 ts; 32 ts. / 56 sts
Round 29: 24 ts; 32 ts. / 56 sts
Round 30: 24 ts; 1 ts, cast on 3 sts using backward-loop cast-on, skip 11 sts, 20 ts. / 48 sts
Rounds 31-32: 48 ts.
Round 33 for left mitten: 24 ts; 2 ts, { tpuff, 3 ts } 5 times, tpuff, 1 ts. / 48 sts
Round 33 for right mitten: 2 ts, { tpuff, 3 ts } 5 times, tpuff, 1 ts; 24 ts. / 48 sts
Rounds 34-37: 48 ts.
Round 38: Same as round 33.
Rounds 39-42: 48 ts.
Round 43: Same as round 33.
Rounds 44-47: 48 ts.
Round 48: Same as round 33.
Round 49: 48 ts.
Round 50-I: 48 ts.
Round 50-II: two 2, 2, 3, {2}17, 3, {2}3, 3, {2}17, 3, 2.
Round 51-I: 2 ts, 2 tog, 17 ts, 2 tog, 3 ts, 2 tog, 17 ts, 2 tog, 1 ts. / 44 sts
Round 51-II: two 2, 2, 3, {2}15, 3, {2}3, 3, {2}15, 3, 2.
Round 52-I: 2 ts, 2 tog, 15 ts, 2 tog, 3 ts, 2 tog, 15 ts, 2 tog, 1 ts. / 40 sts
Round 52-II: two 2, 2, 3, {2}13, 3, {2}3, 3, {2}13, 3, 2.
Round 53-I: 2 ts, 2 tog, 13 ts, 2 tog, 3 ts, 2 tog, 13 ts, 2 tog, 1 ts. / 36 sts
Round 53-II: two 2, 2, 3, {2}11, 3, {2}3, 3, {2}11, 3, 2.
Round 54-I: 2 ts, 2 tog, 11 ts, 2 tog, 3 ts, 2 tog, 11 ts, 2 tog, 1 ts. / 32 sts
Round 54-II: two 2, 2, 3, {2}9, 3, {2}3, 3, {2}9, 3, 2.
Round 55-I: 2 ts, 2 tog, 9 ts, 2 tog, 3 ts, 2 tog, 9 ts, 2 tog, 1 ts. / 28 sts
Round 55-II: two 2, 2, 3, {2}7, 3, {2}3, 3, {2}7, 3, 2.
Round 56-I: 2 ts, 2 tog, 7 ts, 2 tog, 3 ts, 2 tog, 7 ts, 2 tog, 1 ts. / 24 sts
Round 56-II: two 2, 2, 3, {2}5, 3, {2}3, 3, {2}5, 3, 2.
Round 57-I: 2 ts, 2 tog, 5 ts, 2 tog, 3 ts, 2 tog, 5 ts, 2 tog, 1 ts. / 20 sts
Round 57-II: two 2, 2, 3, {2}3, 3, {2}3, 3, {2}3, 3, 2.
Round 58-I: 2 ts, 2 tog, 3 ts, 2 tog, 3 ts, 2 tog, 3 ts, 2 tog, 1 ts. / 16 sts
Round 58-II: two 2, 2, 3, 2, 3, {2}3, 3, 2, 3, 2.
Round 59-I: 2 ts, 2 tog, 1 ts, 2 tog, 3 ts, 2 tog, 1 ts, 2 tog, 1 ts. / 12 sts
When you have picked up approx half of the stitches on the last round move the loops onto a help needle, continue to pick up the remaining stitches with the hook. When you have picked up all the stitches you are going to have 13 loops on the hook. Cut the yarn and thread it through all the loops, pull the yarn to tighten the opening. Fasten off on the inside, and weave in the end.
Thumb
The thumb is worked using 11 stitches that were skiped on round 30, 3 stitches picked up along the cast-on edge made on the same round, and 2 stitches picked up between rounds 30-31 – one stitch on each side of thumb opening. It makes 16 stitches. When you pick up a stitch between two rounds, insert the hook under one thread between the rounds from back to front, bring the yarn over hook and pull it through. This way the stitch will be twisted and it will prevent hole forming at the base of the thumb.
Sometimes you get those holes anyway. It may be worth leaving a long tail of yarn before you start working the thumb – it can be used later for sewing up the holes in case they appear.
When you start working the first round for the thumb you don't need to make a foundation chain, but you need to have one loop on the hook. That's why you have to make a slip knot before you start picking up stitches for the thumb.
Round 1 for left thumb: make a slip knot, pick up a twisted stitch on the right side of thumb opening, 11 ts, pick up a twisted stitch on left side of thumb opening, pick up 3 sts along the cast-on edge. / 16 sts
Round 1 for right thumb: make a slip knot, pick up a twisted stitch on left side of thumb opening, pick up 3 sts along the cast-on edge, pick up a twisted stitch on the right side of thumb opening, 11 ts. / 16 sts
Rounds 2-10: 16 ts.
Round 11-I: 16 ts.
Round 11-II: two 2, 2, 3, 2, 3, {2}3, 3, 2, 3, 2.
Round 12-I: 2 ts, 2 tog, 1 ts, 2 tog, 3 ts, 2 tog, 1 ts, 2 tog, 1 ts. / 12 sts
Round 12-II: two 2, 2, 4, {2}3, 4, 2.
Round 13-I: 2 ts, 3 tog, 3 ts, 3 tog, 1 ts. / 8 sts
When you have picked up approx half of the stitches on the last round move the loops onto a help needle, continue to pick up the remaining stitches with the hook. When you have picked up all the stitches you are going to have 13 loops on the hook. Cut the yarn and thread it through all the loops, pull the yarn to tighten the opening. Fasten off on the inside, and weave in the end.
Good Luck And Happy Crocheting! :)
Yarn Amount: approx 65 g
Crochet Hook: double ended 4 mm or size neede to obtain the gauge
Gauge: 26 stitches and 26 rounds in Tunisian simple stitch = 10 cm
Size: Woman's S
Measurements: 18/20 cm around above/below thumb, 25 cm long
Skill Level: Experienced
Abbreviations:
st(s), ch(s) – stitch(es), chain/chain(s)
ts – Tunisian simple stitch: insert the hook under the next vertical bar on previous round from right to left, bring the yarn over the hook att pull it through; the first round is worked on a foundation chain – insert the hook under the back (upper) loop of a chain stitch unless otherwise directed.
tdc-bp – Tunisian back post double crochet: a Tunisian crochet stitch looks like a vertical bar, a thread that forms this vertical bar emerges from the previous round, goes up, turns in towards the back side of work, and goes then on the bak side of work down to the same place from where it has emerged – this place where the down going thread meets the up going thread is called the root of the stitch, the root is thus these two threads together just above the previous round; so when you make a Tunisian back post double crochet work in the following way: bring the yarn over the hook, insert the hook from the back side around the root of next stitch from right to left, bring the yarn over the hook again and pull it through in the same way as when you work a regular back post double crochet, then bring the yarn over the hook once again and pull it through 2 loops on the hook.
inc – increase one stitch by picking up a stitch between two vertical bars: insert the hook under one horizontal thread between two vertical bars, bring the yarn over the hook and pull it through; the increase is least visible if the hook is inserted under the upper-front-and-nearest-to-the-hook thread if you are working in rounds.
2 tog – work 2 stitches together: insert the hook under the next 2 vertical bars on previous round from right to left, bring the yarn over the hook and pull it through under both bars; 3 stitches together are worked in a corresponding way.
tpuff – Tunisian puff stitch: insert the hook under the next vertical bar on previous round from right to left, bring the yarn over the hook and pull it through – you get a new loop on the hook; bring the yarn over the hook and insert the hook in the same way and under the same vertical bar again, bring the yarn over the hook and pull it through – now you have 3 new loops on the hook totally; bring the yarn over the hook and insert the hook in the same way and under the same vertical bar once again, bring the yarn over the hook and pull it through – now you have 5 new loops on the hook totally; bring the yarn over the hook and pull it through all these 5 loops, yarn over again and pull it through 1 loop.
Round 5-I, Round 5-II – the first pass on round 5, the second pass on round 5. Each round in Tunisian crochet is worked in two passes – on the first pass the stitches are picked up, and on the second pass the stitches are worked off. In contrast to regular Tunisian crochet where you are working a forward pass and a return pass, you will be working all the time forward when you are working in rounds, but you will have to turn the work around in between the passes. When you are working the first pass you will be working from right to left holding your work with the right side facing you, and when you are working the second pass you will be working from left to right holding your work with the wrong side facing you.
Round 5 – if it's not specified how to work the first or the second pass of the round, it means that working the stitches off on the second pass is always 2 loops at a time.
two 2, 4, 3 – work off in Tunisian crochet: the numbers indicate how many stitches should be worked off at a time on the second pass of the round. In this case you should work as follows: bring the yarn over the hook and pull it through 2 loops on hook, yarn over again and pull it through 4 loops on hook, and yarn over once again and pull it through 3 loops on hook.
{2}14 – the number within braces shows how many loops should be worked off at a time, the number after braces shows how many times it should be repeated
{ } – repeat instructions within braces as many times as directed
/ – the number after slash symbol shows the amount of stitches for the round
Mitten
The mitten is work in Tunisian crochet in rounds. You will be working with two strands of yarn, so you need to have two skeins.
Round 1: On this round you will have to work 72 ts.
Start by making 72 chains using one strand of yarn. Form a ring by making the first stitch – insert the hook into the first chain and pick up a stitch. This stitch is the first stitch on the round, put a marker on it so that you can always easily find the begining of the round; remember to move the marker up every time you start a new round. Continue to pick up the remaining 71 stitches. These 72 stitches that you picked up are 72 ts on the first pass.
Note that before you start picking up the stitches, there was already one loop on the hook. It's going to be always one loop more than there are stitches. It would be easy to see that if you move all the stitches that you pick up on a waste yarn. Or if you work all the stitches off, there will be one loop left on the hook.
When you are working Tunisian crochet in rounds, you have to start working the second pass before the first pass is finished. So when you have picked up approx half of the stitches you can start working the second pass. Turn the work around, take the second strand of yarn from another skein, bring the yarn over the hook and pull it through 2 loops, bring the yarn over the hook again and pull it through 2 loops again. Repeat it untill you have 3-5 loops left on the hook. Then turn the work around again, and continue to pick up stitches.
Continue to work in this way untill you have picked up all the stitches on the round, the first pass of the round is completed when you have picked up the last stitch before the marked stitch. On this point your second pass is going to be unfinished – you may have some 3-5 loops on the hook. To know how the stitches should be picked up further, you have to read the instructions for the second round. When you have worked a bit further you can finish the second pass of the first round, the second pass is completed when there is only one loop left before the marked stitch.
The bordelines between the rounds in Tunisian crochet are not easily defined, but it's important to know them in order to read the pattern correctly. So here comes a summary:
The first pass starts when you start picking up the first stitch on the round, the marked one. The first pass is completed when you have picked up the last stitch before the marked stitch. Working the stitches off on the second pass is always 2 loops at a time - even at the beginning of work, unless otherwise stated. The second pass is completed when there is only one loop left before the marked stitch. The next second pass starts when you see that when you bring the yarn and pull it through 2 loops the second loop is from the marked stitch. These guidelines concern only my patterns, the starting points in other patterns may be different.
To work Tunisian crochet in rounds is a bit like juggling, you always have to think about two rounds at the same time. The good news is that working the stitches off in this pattern is always 2 loops at a time up to the increases at the top of the mitten. So there is no need to puzzle your head over where the second passes start and where they are completed up to that place.
Finally we can start working the second round. :)
Round 2: 72 tdc-bp.
Round 3: { 1 ts, inc, 3 ts, 2 tog, 2 tog, 3 ts, inc, 1 ts } 6 times. / 72 sts
Rounds 4-7: Repeat round 3.
Round 8: { 4 ts, 2 tog, 2 tog, 4 ts } 6 times. / 60 sts
Round 9: { 3 ts, 2 tog, 2 tog, 3 ts } 6 times. / 48 sts
Round 10: 48 ts.
Round 11: 48 tdc-bp.
Rounds 12-13: Same as rounds 10-11.
Rounds 14-17: 48 ts.
Rounds 18-30 for left mitten:
Round 18: 21 ts, inc, 3 te; 2 te, { tpuff, 3 ts } 5 times, tpuff, 1 ts. / 49 sts
Round 19: 21 ts, inc, 4 te; 24 te. / 50 sts
Round 20: 21 ts, inc, 5 te; 24 te. / 51 sts
Round 21: 21 ts, inc, 6 te; 24 te. / 52 sts
Round 22: 28 ts; 24 ts. / 52 sts
Round 23: 21 ts, inc, 7 ts; 2 ts, { tpuff, 3 ts } 5 times, tpuff, 1 ts. / 53 sts
Round 24: 21 ts, inc, 8 ts; 24 ts. / 54 sts
Round 25: 30 ts; 24 ts. / 54 sts
Round 26: 21 ts, inc, 9 ts; 24 ts. / 55 sts
Round 27: 21 ts, inc, 10 ts; 24 ts. / 56 sts
Round 28: 32 ts; 2 ts, { tpuff, 3 ts } 5 times, tpuff, 1 ts. / 56 sts
Round 29: 32 ts; 24 ts. / 56 sts
Round 30: 21 ts, cast on 3 sts using backward-loop cast-on, skip 11 sts; 24 ts. / 48 sts
Rounds 18-30 for right mitten:
Round 18: 2 ts, { tpuff, 3 ts } 5 times, tpuff, 1 ts; 4 ts, inc, 20 ts. / 49 sts
Round 19: 24 ts; 5 ts, inc, 20 ts. / 50 sts
Round 20: 24 ts; 6 ts, inc, 20 ts. / 51 sts
Round 21: 24 ts; 7 ts, inc, 20 ts. / 52 sts
Round 22: 24 ts; 28 ts. / 52 sts
Round 23: 2 ts, { tpuff, 3 ts } 5 times, tpuff, 1 ts; 8 ts, inc, 20 ts. / 53 sts
Round 24: 24 ts; 9 ts, inc, 20 ts. / 54 sts
Round 25: 24 ts; 30 ts. / 54 sts
Round 26: 24 ts; 10 ts, inc, 20 ts. / 55 sts
Round 27: 24 ts; 11 ts, inc, 20 ts. / 56 sts
Round 28: 2 ts, { tpuff, 3 ts } 5 times, tpuff, 1 ts; 32 ts. / 56 sts
Round 29: 24 ts; 32 ts. / 56 sts
Round 30: 24 ts; 1 ts, cast on 3 sts using backward-loop cast-on, skip 11 sts, 20 ts. / 48 sts
Rounds 31-32: 48 ts.
Round 33 for left mitten: 24 ts; 2 ts, { tpuff, 3 ts } 5 times, tpuff, 1 ts. / 48 sts
Round 33 for right mitten: 2 ts, { tpuff, 3 ts } 5 times, tpuff, 1 ts; 24 ts. / 48 sts
Rounds 34-37: 48 ts.
Round 38: Same as round 33.
Rounds 39-42: 48 ts.
Round 43: Same as round 33.
Rounds 44-47: 48 ts.
Round 48: Same as round 33.
Round 49: 48 ts.
Round 50-I: 48 ts.
Round 50-II: two 2, 2, 3, {2}17, 3, {2}3, 3, {2}17, 3, 2.
Round 51-I: 2 ts, 2 tog, 17 ts, 2 tog, 3 ts, 2 tog, 17 ts, 2 tog, 1 ts. / 44 sts
Round 51-II: two 2, 2, 3, {2}15, 3, {2}3, 3, {2}15, 3, 2.
Round 52-I: 2 ts, 2 tog, 15 ts, 2 tog, 3 ts, 2 tog, 15 ts, 2 tog, 1 ts. / 40 sts
Round 52-II: two 2, 2, 3, {2}13, 3, {2}3, 3, {2}13, 3, 2.
Round 53-I: 2 ts, 2 tog, 13 ts, 2 tog, 3 ts, 2 tog, 13 ts, 2 tog, 1 ts. / 36 sts
Round 53-II: two 2, 2, 3, {2}11, 3, {2}3, 3, {2}11, 3, 2.
Round 54-I: 2 ts, 2 tog, 11 ts, 2 tog, 3 ts, 2 tog, 11 ts, 2 tog, 1 ts. / 32 sts
Round 54-II: two 2, 2, 3, {2}9, 3, {2}3, 3, {2}9, 3, 2.
Round 55-I: 2 ts, 2 tog, 9 ts, 2 tog, 3 ts, 2 tog, 9 ts, 2 tog, 1 ts. / 28 sts
Round 55-II: two 2, 2, 3, {2}7, 3, {2}3, 3, {2}7, 3, 2.
Round 56-I: 2 ts, 2 tog, 7 ts, 2 tog, 3 ts, 2 tog, 7 ts, 2 tog, 1 ts. / 24 sts
Round 56-II: two 2, 2, 3, {2}5, 3, {2}3, 3, {2}5, 3, 2.
Round 57-I: 2 ts, 2 tog, 5 ts, 2 tog, 3 ts, 2 tog, 5 ts, 2 tog, 1 ts. / 20 sts
Round 57-II: two 2, 2, 3, {2}3, 3, {2}3, 3, {2}3, 3, 2.
Round 58-I: 2 ts, 2 tog, 3 ts, 2 tog, 3 ts, 2 tog, 3 ts, 2 tog, 1 ts. / 16 sts
Round 58-II: two 2, 2, 3, 2, 3, {2}3, 3, 2, 3, 2.
Round 59-I: 2 ts, 2 tog, 1 ts, 2 tog, 3 ts, 2 tog, 1 ts, 2 tog, 1 ts. / 12 sts
When you have picked up approx half of the stitches on the last round move the loops onto a help needle, continue to pick up the remaining stitches with the hook. When you have picked up all the stitches you are going to have 13 loops on the hook. Cut the yarn and thread it through all the loops, pull the yarn to tighten the opening. Fasten off on the inside, and weave in the end.
Thumb
The thumb is worked using 11 stitches that were skiped on round 30, 3 stitches picked up along the cast-on edge made on the same round, and 2 stitches picked up between rounds 30-31 – one stitch on each side of thumb opening. It makes 16 stitches. When you pick up a stitch between two rounds, insert the hook under one thread between the rounds from back to front, bring the yarn over hook and pull it through. This way the stitch will be twisted and it will prevent hole forming at the base of the thumb.
Sometimes you get those holes anyway. It may be worth leaving a long tail of yarn before you start working the thumb – it can be used later for sewing up the holes in case they appear.
When you start working the first round for the thumb you don't need to make a foundation chain, but you need to have one loop on the hook. That's why you have to make a slip knot before you start picking up stitches for the thumb.
Round 1 for left thumb: make a slip knot, pick up a twisted stitch on the right side of thumb opening, 11 ts, pick up a twisted stitch on left side of thumb opening, pick up 3 sts along the cast-on edge. / 16 sts
Round 1 for right thumb: make a slip knot, pick up a twisted stitch on left side of thumb opening, pick up 3 sts along the cast-on edge, pick up a twisted stitch on the right side of thumb opening, 11 ts. / 16 sts
Rounds 2-10: 16 ts.
Round 11-I: 16 ts.
Round 11-II: two 2, 2, 3, 2, 3, {2}3, 3, 2, 3, 2.
Round 12-I: 2 ts, 2 tog, 1 ts, 2 tog, 3 ts, 2 tog, 1 ts, 2 tog, 1 ts. / 12 sts
Round 12-II: two 2, 2, 4, {2}3, 4, 2.
Round 13-I: 2 ts, 3 tog, 3 ts, 3 tog, 1 ts. / 8 sts
When you have picked up approx half of the stitches on the last round move the loops onto a help needle, continue to pick up the remaining stitches with the hook. When you have picked up all the stitches you are going to have 13 loops on the hook. Cut the yarn and thread it through all the loops, pull the yarn to tighten the opening. Fasten off on the inside, and weave in the end.
Good Luck And Happy Crocheting! :)